A British Rail Adventure to Remember

As I glance around the packed bar—located in the heart of one of Britain’s biggest cities—I think to myself how remarkable it is that just a little while ago I was staring out of a train window at snow-dusted Scottish hills and the wide open spaces of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. 

This bubbly scene capped the first day of a journey that saw me traversing Britain by train with a BritRail Pass. Despite being the place where passenger rail travel was born (back in 1825, coincidentally, if you're in the mood for a 200th-anniversary trip), Britain's rail network is overlooked by some international visitors, but I think it’s an attraction in itself and hands down the best way to get around the island.

Before we get back to the details of my trip, it’s probably a good idea to cover some basics about the BritRail Pass. 

In a nutshell, the BritRail Pass is an all-in-one pass that gives the traveler unlimited access to almost all trains across England, Scotland and Wales, making it easy to bounce around the width and breadth of Britain without having to book individual tickets. Just activate your pass, walk into the station, and hop aboard. 

Decide at the last minute you'd like to take the scenic route north through the Yorkshire Dales like I did, then just go for it. And with validity options ranging from a few days to an entire month, the BritRail Pass offers an awesome combination of spontaneity and savings.

Like the station itself, the voco Grand Central Glasgow is a stunner featuring Victorian grandeur on the outside and oodles of modern charm inside, and there couldn’t be a better place to kick off a rail trip to Scotland. 

Despite being the biggest city in Scotland, Glasgow is a classic “second city” from a tourism perspective (there’s no need to beat around the bush, Edinburgh is much more popular with international visitors), and that means it’s also the perfect antidote to the saccharin-sweet European destinations currently battling waves of overtourism.

Glasgow is known for its industrial past (the city had a leading role as a shipbuilding and trading hub), and today it pulses with up-and-coming creative energy.  

You immediately get the feeling that something is happening here, with both lifelong Glaswegians and the just-moved-here walking around with grins on their faces, contented in the knowledge that they live in one of the hippest cities in Europe without having to deal with the A-list spotlight.

The highlight of my time in the city though, was a wander through Glasgow Green. Here, I joined the locals along tree-lined paths, stopping to admire the eye-catching carvings of Doulton Fountain—the world’s largest terracotta fountain. Then I made my way into West Brewery, which is located in a striking old carpet factory. It’s the only brewery in the UK that brews according to the much-ballyhooed German Purity Law, and I enjoyed a tall wheat beer and a pretzel while looking out over the park. German beer in the biggest city in Scotland? Why not? This city is full of surprises and global influences, and that’s part of what makes it so fun to visit. 

Next, it was on to Dunkeld, a wee town at the foot of the Scottish Highlands, by way of a scenic ride through central Scotland. As Glasgow faded, the countryside opened up before my eyes, with sweet views on either side of the train. Then, somewhere just past Stirling, I spotted the Wallace Monument (dedicated to the legendary Scottish hero William Wallace) rising proudly on a hill to the right—a stirring sight that evoked Scotland’s storied past.

Straight after arriving in Dunkeld, I was smitten. 

How could you not be? As our cab from the station crossed the River Tay over an elegant 19th-century bridge that sports seven graceful arches, I spotted rows of cottages-turned-shops, a cozy-looking bakery and a pub. Then things got turned up a notch, as we arrived at the impressive grounds of the Dunkeld House Hotel, and experienced a dramatic entrance worthy of the first scenes of a reality show, you know, when the contestants are whisked away somewhere luxurious and secluded. 

Staying at Dunkeld House Hotel, on the other hand, is like starring in a Scottish drama. Nestled beside the River Tay and sporting an impressive stag statue out front, this retreat offers a sumptuous stay, but one with direct access to the great Scottish outdoors. 

Immediately upon arrival, I took to the well-marked riverside trail, where the relaxing sounds of the River Tay accompanied every step. The grounds of the hotel are lovingly landscaped, featuring a remarkable variety of tree species, which were showcased on an episode of the wildly popular show Outlander.

The first night in Dunkeld, I stayed hunkered down at the Dunkeld House Hotel, having dinner downstairs beside the crackling fire and piano and relaxing after the travel day. On my second day, I walked into town (around 20 minutes) to investigate that bakery (spoiler alert: it’s called Aran and it’s really good) and spent a few happy hours at the Taybank Pub, which owns a riverside location and a reputation for great music. There, I spent a few merry hours enjoying being on the right side of the frosted window panes. 

Afterward, I began the peaceful walk back to the hotel, and that’s when I was hit with a dusting of travel magic. The village quickly gave way to paths that led me past Dunkeld Cathedral and into the woods. The only sound was the crunch of frosty grass below me, while above stretched a sky so full of stars it looked like it was computer-generated.

It was tough to leave the Dunkeld House Hotel the next morning, but after one last walk along the riverside, I managed to make my way to the rail station and began a journey south to Birmingham, England.

As I was traveling with a first-class BritRail Pass, I enjoyed an incredible experience on the journey from Glasgow to Birmingham that included sparkling wine and lunch better than anything I’ve ever had at 10,000 feet. As the hills of southern Scotland faded into northern English ones, we pulled into Birmingham New Street Station, a modern marvel that was absolutely buzzing with activity. 

Just like a couple of nights before at the bar in Glasgow, as I stepped out of the train into the heart of this bustling city, I thought to myself how remarkable it is that just this morning I was walking beside a babbling river in a wee town in rural Scotland. 

But that’s the magic of exploring Britain by rail, which is made even more fun with the “hop on, hop off” appeal of the BritRail Pass. One second you’re looking out the window at scenes that will take your breath away, the next you're getting a big city buzz. 

Yes, Britain does epic rail adventures, too, and you or your client shouldn’t come here without hopping aboard.